Girolamo Russo 'Nerina' 2024 Etna Bianco

750ml bottle

12.5% abv

Intense, aromatic, grapefruit, straw, apples; crisp acidity and pleasing length.

Grapes: 70% Carricante, 30% Catarratto/Inzolia/Grecanico/Minnella
Farming: Certified Organic
Age of vines: Planted in 1924, 1964 and 2016
Altitude & Soil Type: 700 M, volcanic
Winemaking: Controlled low temperature fermentation in 70% steel and 30% tonneaux with indigenous yeasts
Aging: 6 months in 70% steel and 30% tonneaux, on the lees 

Depending on the vintage, this wine is a field blend of 70-80% Carricante and 25% a mixture of other typical white varieties found on Etna: Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella, and Coda di Volpe. The Carricante comes from San Lorenzo, the other varieties were interplanted with red varieties in a number of different vineyards, which range in elevation from 650 to 800 meters (2,100-2,600 feet) above sea level. The vines are partly old (planted 50-100 years ago) and partly younger. The grapes are pressed, and the must is fermented at controlled temperature, using indigenous yeast, in used puncheons (about 1/3) and stainless steel tanks. No malolactic is carried out, and the wine is aged in the same containers on the fine lees for about six months.

Giuseppe Russo had been studying to be a pianist when his father Girolamo died unexpectedly in 2005. He then came back home to Mount Etna to take over the family vineyards. Since that time he has been organically farming these old vines, some of them more than 100 years old, and he has restored the old cellar under his house. He has 15 hectares of vines on the North side of Etna, around the town of Passopisciaro, including pieces of some famous ‘contrade’, as the historic localities are known here. For Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo lovers, Nerello Mascalese is an exciting discovery. It can produce reds of impressive subtlety and structure, drinkable when young and even better with a few years of age. 

Giuseppe’s vineyards are planted on ancient lava flows called ‘sciare,’ which vary in age, mineral content and topsoil composition, with underground pockets that allow water retention to keep the vines hydrated during the heat of the summer. The solid rock of these lava flows breaks down over time, eventually becoming loose enough that a plant’s roots can penetrate. All of the Etna DOC is at relatively high elevation for red wines, more than 500 meters above sea level; to some extent the elevation counteracts the effect of latitude, in terms of the mesoclimate around the vineyards. 

Russo makes a range of Etna red wines, all made almost entirely of Nerello Mascalese. A’Rina is his estate wine, made mostly from fruit from his younger vines. Then he produces five wines from single ‘contrade,’ San Lorenzo, Feudo, Calderara Sottana, Feudo di Mezzo, and Feudo di Mezzo ‘Piano delle Colombe.’ Russo also makes an Etna Rosato from Nerello Mascalese and two Etna Bianco bottlings made mostly of Carricante, with other local white varieties. In the years that we have been dealing with Giuseppe these wines have gone from afterthoughts to excellent, and I find whites and rosés from Etna to be among the best wines of their type in all of Italy. 

Notes from the importer: Giuseppe Russo is a quiet thoughtful man, formerly a pianist. Since 2005 he has been organically farming his family's old vineyards, many of the vines around 100 years of age, and he is restoring the old cellar under his house. He has 15 hectares of vines on the North side of Etna around the town of Passopisciaro. For Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo lovers, Nerello Mascalese is an exciting find — it can produce reds with impressive delicacy as well as those with great structure. Russo’s a’Rina is a blend of grapes from younger vines. Vineyards are planted on ancient lava flows, all varying in age and mineral content This red is juicy, complex, and delicious. Fabulous with pasta dishes, seafood, and grilled light meats.