Sziegl Pince "Bábel" 2023 Siller Hajos, Hungary

This is essentially a “Siller,” which is in between a light red and a rosé. More tannins than a whole cluster press, way more acidity due to the earlier picks, and more aromatics as well. It’s also the result of 10-15 harvest passes, multiple processing methods, and all with super gentle pressing. The Kékfrankos and Zweigelt come from the cooler clay heavy Diófás vineyard. The first 3-4 harvest passes of the Kékfrankos and Zweigelt were all whole cluster pressed, foot trodden and then soaked for a few hours. The subsequent picks were mostly the same but the soaking time steadily increased. The late ripening Kadarka was carbonically macerated for a few days. All of the fruit (including a splash of Olaszrizling for good measure) was layered in the same large tank and eventually co-fermented until dry and bottled unfiltered. We wish we could have enough of this to drink all year.

About 3 hours south and just east of the Danube River is the village Hajós. More importantly, about 3 km outside of town is the Hajósi Pincefalu (the cellar village of Hajós). With deep Swabian roots dating back to the 1700s, there are over 1200 cellars dug into the hillsides. Driving through the Pincefalu is like a cellar theme park with sandy vineyards on top and narrow streets and cellar doors below. While this area was of course dealt the typical Hungarian historical blow after the world wars and Communism, the older sandy vineyards were left alone due to the risk of heavy Soviet tractors collapsing the vast cellar system. Here we meet Petra and Balázs Sziegl. Balázs studied viticulture and wrote a thesis on Kadarka. He is focused on the vineyards, a ton of clonal research, and preserving the older vines. Petra studied winemaking and is principally in the cellar. A young couple, new baby, and juggling a winery just founded in 2012, brand new plantings of 5, and farming a total of around 5 hectares entirely themselves. On our last visit we shared a proper Bajai Halászlé (Fisherman’s soup) made with only 5 ingredients: water, paprika, onions, fish, and pasta. It’s one of those dishes that is super unique, delicious and highlighted how versatile, vibrant and equally honest these wines are.